Arriving at Chateau Davies’ early Monday afternoon the members of KCLMC faced an uncertain week; weather forecasts were not good, rain was predicted and expected. Deciding to make the most of the sun we set out immediately for the mountainous Long Scar and Black Crag. Your author squeezed his new car past what seemed an unending supply of cars, vans and minibuses on the narrow rock lined approached road before finally parking up high and exposed...
Mr Davies proceeded to lead us, mountain guide style, up to the rocks. His recent Mountain Leader training in evidence throughout the week as he pointed out interesting plants and features, providing an ongoing commentary on the flora and fauna of the lakes.
Reaching the crag we split into the groups that typified most of the week; Martin tutoring Andy and Brandon on the finer points of trad leading, while Ali and I partnered up. Ali quickly dispatched Katie’s Dilemma on Long Scar before we headed further up to the unique Black Crag which features an unmistakable Needle that seems to float detached on its corner. Andy made a fine ascent of this stunning feature, while Ali and I explored the southern face. Here, encouraged by Ali’s relentless enthusiasm, I lead my first HVS on the excellent arête/crack line that is Ann’s Agony. I was quickly joined on the summit by Martin who impressively soloed the bold E2 line of Glass Slipper. Suitably stoked with our afternoons climbing we retired to Chateau Davies and enjoyed the first of a series of delicious meals prepared by Martin’s mum.
Tuesday saw us head to Gimmer crag, approaching directly via some vdiff climbing on the lower crags. Again splitting into our groups Brandon lead his 2nd trad route, running both pitches of the classic Ash Tree Slabs together, an impressive display! Ali and I struggled to find the direct start to Bracket And Slab, but upon locating it Ali lead the delicate first pitch, while I cursed our lack of halves on the “cunning” traverse; zig-zagging is not recommended on singles! Ali and I both passed up on trying to retrieve a massively over-cammed and deeply seated cam; I suspect that particular bit of gear will stay placed for many, many years to come!
Descending from another fine days climbing Brandon dared to suggest that Martin’s route finding was less than stellar, a point apparently backed up by a series of dodgy scrambles down via scree, bracken, streams and gullies. All good fun!
As to be expected on any trip involving not one but two philosophy students the evenings’ conversations were wide ranging and intellectual, touching on war, art and the meaning of friendship, ensuring we trained not only our bodies but our minds, honing our intellects in the cut and thrust of debate.
Bad weather loomed on Wednesday, but not before Andy lead the super-classic VDIff Little Chamonix at Shepards crag. Escaping from the rain we took refuge in the impressive Kendal climbing wall which boasts an intimidating 20m lead wall. While the others took advantage of this unique feature your good author partook of some fine bouldering and some banter with the ever friendly and encouraging locals. Having given it our all pulling plastic we retired for an evening in the pub, gracing it with our extensive darts skills.
Mr Heggie (pictured below) asked incredulously upon seeing a draft of this report "You have not mentioned that I won at darts?! Twice!"
Thursday morning saw the sad departure of Mr Feneley. Disheartened but unbowed the rest of us pressed on to Scout Crag. While Brandon and Martin tackled the multi-pitch classics Route 1 and Route 2 on the highest tier, with Brandon showing great resolve on leading after suffering from a bout of sketching out on his first lead of the day, Ali and I attempted to tick off the severes on the lowest tier. Route of the day was Oh Heck, described in the guidebook as being a poor and dirty route, but which turned out to be a great, and dirty, lead for Heggie. A final march up to Raven Crag saw Ali lead Original Route while an exhausted Brandon and I took the opportunity to catch a nap in the last rays of sunlight before the weather closed in, ending a great weeks climbing by all.
Words by Joe Mealor
